Kyoto, the ancient former capital of Japan, breathes history and mystery. Its temples, gardens and palaces are testimony to many centuries of aristocratic and religious grandeur. Under the veneer of modernity, the city remains filled with countless reminders of a proud past. John Dougill explores this most venerable of Japanese cities, revealing the spirit of place and the individuals that have shaped its often dramatic history. Courtiers and courtesans, poets and priests, samurai and geisha people the pages of his account. Covering twelve centuries in all, the book not only provides a historical overview but brings to life the cultural magnificence of the city of "Purple Hills and Crystal Streams". City of Power: The seat of aristocrats and warriors; military might and spiritual authority; unification and the transition to modernity. City of Ritual: Buddhist sects and Shinto festivals; tea ceremony; the role of the geisha; the influence of Zen. City of Arts: Poetry and fiction; architecture and garden design; Heian verse and Noh theatre; art and handicrafts; the Japanese Hollywood.

Table of Contents:
Foreword by Donald RichiePreface and AcknowledgementsNotesChapter OneCity of Kammu (Heian)A New Beginning (); Spirit of Place (); Spirit of the Age (); Court Verse (); The Poet Beauty (); The Courtly Lover (); The Grand Wizard ()Chapter TwoCity of Genji (Heian)The Cult of Beauty (); The Pursuit of Love (); Pillow Talk (); The Poet of Passion (); The Shining Prince (); Postscript ()Chapter ThreeCity of Buddhism (Heian-Kamakura)Religious Syncretism (); Tendai Eclecticism (); Living Saints (); Shingon Esotericism (); Amidism (); Pure Land Devotion (); True Pure Land Devotion () Chapter FourCity of Heike (Heian-Kamakura)Epic Origins (); The Tyrant (); The Hero (); The Tragic Female (); The Poet Wanderer (); Court Verse Revisited (); Chomei's Hut (); Kenko's Idleness ()Chapter FiveCity of Zen (Kamakura-Muromachi)The Wordless Way (); Constructs (); The Wild Man (); The Art of Zen (); Dry Landscapes ()Chapter SixCity of Noh (Muromachi)Torchlight Drama (); Noh Genius (); The Repertory (); The Art of Noh (); Past and Future (); Comic Interlude (); Moral Skits ()Chapter SevenCity of Unification (Azuchi-Momoyama)The Strong Man (); The Second Founder (); Decorative Art (); Art Schools (); Picturing Kyoto ()Chapter EightCity of Tea (Momoyama)Tea Spirit (); Tea Master (); Tea Garden (); Tea Room (); Tea Art () Chapter NineCity of Tradition (Edo)A Military Touch (); Heian Revival (); Art Sublime (); The Floating World (); Haiku Master (); The Literati (); Capital Crafts (); Edo Ends ()Chapter TenCity of Geisha (Edo)A Work of Art (); Pleasure Quarters (); A New Profession (); The Flower Districts (); Gion Walking (); Fact and Fiction () Chapter ElevenCity of Japaneseness (Meiji and after)Reinvention (); The Janus City (); War Survivor (); The Japanese Hollywood (); Kurosawa's Gate (); Mizoguchi's City (); Tanizaki's Key (); Mishima's Golden Pavilion (); Kawabata's Old Capital (); The Modern Metropolis (); Culinary Capital ()Further ReadingGlossary Key Historical DatesIndex of Literary & Historical NamesIndex of Places