Excerpt from Straight Shoulder Rules, Systems and Methods of the Present Day: Coats and Vests

There is nothing egotistical in the above mention of the old, as it is an open secret with all experienced cutters that they can produce but poor results working out problems from only the knowledge first taught them. It is from years of actual experience of the many old, and from their unpractical workings, that this book is evolved. It embodies all that is essential to guide one right from the start. First we have the proportionate rule foundation and that based on principle, with proof of the points and location as going together in harmony with each other; the established center, to prove from as a rule without proofs, is not to be relied upon, and one that proves as to points located must necessarily prove itself right. A good rule must be based on principle, and by it proportion to work from. The better the proportion (and all are not of the same) as to their points and location, the better the rule to apply measures as taken to govern. Different rules and systems have different points of location, and when measures are applied as taken. To a draft in drafting, points are placed in a position to apply measures that do not go as placed nor as taken, in most rules, to quite a space; and, in couse quence of it all, points are out of proper location and not in harmony as they go together.

The measurement rule to draft by measure, having the proportion as a guide, it will be found often of great assistance to help decisions, especially for the long-neck form; that no rule governs the location as well as the use of proportion to locate the front shoulder-point in har mony with the back, as to the extra depth taken for back scye depth, while the measure taken for the stooping form may call for as long, the front strap measure would locate for it, while not in the long, erect neck form. If a measure could be so taken on any part of shoulder of the form by the holding of tape to it and feeling for the location to locate by and then to apply it on a flat surface, as that of taking over the round in the same twistings and turns, there may be in it more than guess-work, surely no certainty of good result and one of the many that are not practical in the old.

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