This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1920 Excerpt: ...Half full size. Take two small pieces of sheet metal, brass for preference, about twice the size given in Fig. 80, a, and drill in tham four holes as shown. If you do not possess a very fine drill of the right kind, one can easily be made as follows: --A small piece of steel, such as half a very thick needle (a string needle, for example), should be heated at one end and permitted to cool slowly, so as to soften it. It should then be filed or ground on a stone to a sharp but short point something like that of a pencil. It is then reheated to a bright red heat, and cooled quickly by waving it about in the air. That will restore to it about the correct amount of hardness to render it a very useful punch for making holes in thin metal. Lay the metal upon a piece of hard wood or a blook of lead, and drive the point of the punch gently through it with a few light touches of the hammer. When the hole has been made, insert the end of a fine broach (several of these should be on the bench of every model-maker), and a few turns will make the hole round and neat. The further you push the broach in, the larger the hole becomes. Any rough edges on the under side should be cleaned off carefully with a file. Having thus perforated the two metal plates, bend them to an L-shape as shown in Fig. 80, a. The larger of the holes in each is for a screw to fix the bearing down upon a block of wood (to be described presently), while the small hole in each admits an end of the spindle. A structure to support these bearings is made out of two sides of nice wood J in. thick, and a thicker piece forming the base. Fig. 80, d, should now be consulted. It gives a side view of the complete machine. It is approximately to scale, but you may need to modify it to suit the size of the clock-w..